Like many excellent restaurant recipes, Calliopes farm lettuces with feta and scallions was born at home...
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Try the East Villages Calliope for some of the citys best roast chicken: a pan-seared breast served in chicken stock with cabbage stuffed with confit leg and vegetables.
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When the Spotted Pig opened eight years ago, it introduced gastropub dining and a contemporary British kitchen sensibility to New York, making it one of the most influential restaurants of the last decade. Calliope has a chance to do something similar for the bistronomie movement, led by Parisian chefs who have breathed new life into bistro cuisine.
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Exceptional new French-bistro cuisine in an unpretentious downtown setting, at very reasonable prices.
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The best place to sample the New Wave of French cooking downtown is Ginevra Iverson and Eric Korshs deceptively modest East Village mom-and-pop operation, Calliope.
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Baba Rhum
This iteration of the classic evokes the one Alain Ducasse serves at Le Louis XV in Monte Carlo, at about one fourth the cost.
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THE first time I tasted Ginevra Iversons cooking, I was sure she was French. At the time, she was running the kitchen at Thirstbaràvin, an overachieving wine bar in Crown Heights, Brooklyn, and nothing about her menu felt American. Not its concise take-it-or-leave-it length, nor its obvious faith in the power of sorrel and leeks and butter, nor its sensitive takes on the kinds of classics that are scratched in chalk above a zinc bar.
Only someone born in France, I thought, could serve a plate of lamb leg with baked tomatoes that tasted so simple and honest, with no effort to crank the flavors up to American levels.
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Calliope offers classic charcuterie that has been slightly refined, like the elegant tête de porc, and big, comforting dishes of roast chicken breast on the bone. The chicken comes with a rolled-up cigar of cabbage, stuffed with thigh meat, and the menu includes other old-school touches, like a baba au rhum that's cut at the table.
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Calliope, a perky new French bistro on this corner, aims higher than Bloody Marys and gloopy hollandaise. In fact, the menu is so glamorous, so unabashedly retro, that it seems like the sort of food that might have been served in the first-class cabin on an Air France flight in the late sixties. There is no stomach-lining truffle mac and cheese, no burger, not even any elaborate six-ingredient cocktails. Instead, there are terrines, tarts, tripe, and rabbit, with a small selection of mixed drinks so classic they require no explanation. In other words, grownup food, which arrives as a whisper, not a shout.
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Husband-and-wife team Eric Korsh and Ginevra Iverson punch up the soul-warming favoritehomemade chicken soupwith an upmarket play on the poultrys light and dark meat at their East Village throwback bistro.
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Dish #3 of 100 dishes to eat right now is the dreamiest little baba in NYC.
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Unlike somberly vegetal spinach, rainbow chard pops with color; the entire ROYGBIV spectrum might not be represented in a single bunch, but almost. Its ruffly leaves and sturdy stems count as two vegetables in one, and both can be used to great effect in rich gratins, as co-chefs Ginevra Iverson and Eric Korsh do in dueling sides at Calliope in the East Village. For this recipe, they combine the leaves with lemony sorrel and tangy Pecorino for a luscious French classic that makes it easier to bid Indian summer adieu.
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Before there was a hot young chef on every corner, modest French bistros were as ubiquitous downtown as low-key trattorias. The best of themonly a few still remainoffered a romantic vision of a bohemian Paris, with candlelit tables topped with carafes of house wine, garlic-sopped escargot and falling-off-the-bone coq au vin. There was a mom-and-pop bonhomie to the reception up front, just enough personality to the food served inside and prices well suited to frugal first dates.
Calliopea new East Village bistro in that vanishing vein, with Art-Deco ironwork and a zinc bar imported from across the Atlanticis a gentle reminder of what made those warhorses great. Like the classic venues it channels, this isnt a line-up-on-the-sidewalk, tweet-each-course kind of placejust a pleasant, accessible neighborhood restaurant.
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Calliope, a sweet new East Village bistro, is just what the dining scene needed a refreshing palate-cleanser after a summer bilge of $35 swordfish and farm-to-table, nose-to-tail overkill.
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But when the food began to arrive at this unexpectedly sophisticated little restaurant, the Vulture ceased his gloomy, incessantly downbeat chatter, and the beginnings of a slow, uneasy smile began to creep across his face. We enjoyed half a dozen clean, briny Sunken Meadow Gem oysters from Cape Cod (well chilled, with a simple mignonette sauce), and a bowl of cool tomato soup scattered with bits of fresh crab, which went nicely with the house bread, which is grilled and topped with an anchovy, garlic, and olive-oil paste.
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Eric Korsh and his wife, Ginevra Iverson, had been talking about another place of their own since their Restaurant Eloise in Sebastopol, Calif., didnt quite work out. It would be French, mostly serious farmhouse French, but fun and laid-back. And it is.
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The vegetable dishes at the brand-new Calliope in the East Village are mighty delicious.
But the abiding relationship between Calliopes husband-and-wife chefs, Ginevra Iverson and Eric Korsh, and Pino Cinquemani of Pino's Prime Meats has us waxing especially carnivorous.
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At the end of a long meal, many diners enjoy a stroll, while others prefer to collapse in place for a nap and wake up later to the smell of coffee. A Frenchwoman I know has a better remedy: She drops a cube of sugar to soak in a glass of Calvados, then recovers it with her fingers and pops it into her mouth for a one-two punch of booze and sugar. This is called a "canard."
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The East Village's newest darling of a restaurant, Calliope, knows from good meat. The restaurant's husband-and-wife chefs, Ginevra Iverson and Eric Korsh, source from Soho's fabled Pino's Prime Meats for dishes such as braised lamb neck and an aged strip steak served with rafts of butter.
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I had no idea that the word Calliope referred to so many different things. It's a breed of sweet little Humming Bird indigenous to Fort Tryon Park, a World War II tank equipped with missile launcher, a song by Tom Waits, and now a terrific new restaurant from a talented husband and wife chef team: former Waverly Inn chef Eric Korsh and Prune veteran Ginny Iverson.
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